This year we found cheap flights to New Orleans for Thanksgiving. (It is pronounced more like Norlans) One of my work mates, Carlos, used to live there so he gave us valuable insight and a few contacts.
We set off early on the Thursday, missing the Wednesday night rush. I went to pick up the small, fuel efficient, rental car at New Orleans. I was offered a 'free upgrade' to an SUV (4WD). I declined to the confusion of the attendant. I explained that I was a climate scientist and that it would be hypocritical to drive such a huge carbon emitter, especially in a city that will suffer from impending sea level rise. The attendant was amused and promised me a 2-door small car. I was happy, until we saw the car ... a sports car. I don't think she quite understood 'fuel efficient'! Never mind, we had fun driving it.
On the Friday we went on a swamp tour. I had been imagining a swamp like a billabong in Kakadu. It was very different. There were alligators, but very little wildlife or beauty. It actually looked more like the Murray. The tour guide was amusing. He promised that would "learn y'all about the swamps here in Louisiana."
We then went to visit two plantations that had been used for growing cane sugar many years ago. The first was Laura Plantation. We loved this one. The tour guide was very passionate about the place and not afraid to tell good stories as well as bad. http://www.lauraplantation.com/welcome_frame.htm
The plantation was run by a series of matriarchs spanning about four generations. It had a large slave population (I think 200) and some of their houses are still standing. The Br'er Rabbit stories were recorded there.
The other plantation, Oak Alley, was grander, but blander. All we saw was the mansion and were told about how grand life was.
That evening we met up with friends of Carlos' - Jackie and Hans. It was great to get their insight on life in New Orleans and what it was like to live through Hurricane Katrina. They evacuated in time, but lost everything as their house was almost completely underwater.
Saturday morning we were up early watching the ABC live election coverage. Needless to say we were celebrating and look forward to coming back to Australia now!
Later on Saturday Jackie and Hans took us on a tour of New Orleans to see what had happened since Katrina. Many areas looked as though they were just run down. We didn't realise the destruction till we saw suburbs similar to what they used to be. Other areas such as the ninth ward no longer existed. They were just flat grass land.
One of the levees that broke.
The Ninth Ward.
Many of the houses were yet to be renovated and looked like that had been pushed off their foundations. It was very sad to see the crosses still spray painted on the front of houses which labelled when they were searched and how many bodies were found.
On a happier note, we went on to have lunch with Jackie and Hans at a lovely cafe. We liked the food in New Orleans - it seemed to have more flavour than what we get here. The idea of sugar on everything seems to be US-wide though. I was convinced to try Praline bacon which is bacon coated in brown sugar - very bizarre. Because the US only has the rasher and not the eye of the bacon, the bacon flavour wasn't strong. It tasted just like fat and sugar.
Saturday evening we went to Bourbon St. in the French Quarter. This is the main pub and nightclub street. It is hard to describe the buzz of this street. There were people of all ages from kids to grandparents. Groups of teenagers were playing jazz in the streets and people dancing. We wandered in and out of bars listening to live jazz, blues, rock ... as the mood took us. We ordered sweet potato fries for dinner and bravely tasted them with the accompanying maple syrup - wouldn't recommend it.
